The 6-Pack Triumph club produces a calendar annually which few can compare with. This year, I was determined to get my car in the calendar. My trip to my father's local car show gave me a great opportunity to shoot my car and his in some great environments to get great photos.
The end result was that I shot photos which made up 2 of the 12 months worth of the calendar. Both my father's car and my own made it into the calendar- Miss April (Dad) and Miss October (my car).
Here are the results. These shots were taken over Eden Bluff on Beaver Lake in Northwest Arkansas.
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
Monday, September 15, 2014
2014 Northwest Arkansas British Iron Car Show
I had the opportunity to attend the 2014 Northwest Arkansas British Iron Car Show. To say it was an awesome show is a gross understatement. The event is well run, well attended and the fact that it is down the street from my parents' home makes it even better for me.
This year the guest of honor was Kas Kastner. I built my car per his performance manual, so meeting him was a treat. At one point, he spent nearly half an hour with me at my car asking questions about what things I had done to it to make it go fast. He would then go through how he came up with the idea for that modification and then developed it! Definitely a discussion I'll never forget!
There were definitely some pretty awesome cars there, here are a few of the sights!
This year the guest of honor was Kas Kastner. I built my car per his performance manual, so meeting him was a treat. At one point, he spent nearly half an hour with me at my car asking questions about what things I had done to it to make it go fast. He would then go through how he came up with the idea for that modification and then developed it! Definitely a discussion I'll never forget!
Attending the show with my mother and father was a pretty big highlight too! In the end, I took 2nd in early TR6, and Dad took 2nd in unrestored with his '74 TR6.
There were definitely some pretty awesome cars there, here are a few of the sights!
Saturday, June 21, 2014
Useful Triumph Information Links On The Web
My father just purchased a 1975 TR6. His first TR in 30 years!
I compiled these links for him, but thought people who read my blog might appreciate them.
Useful links
6-Pack Forum - http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum
Best Tech articles on the web - http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
Wiring diagrams - http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf
Dashboard wiring connections - http://www.6-pack.org/j15/media/kunena/attachments/6613/74-75FaciaR1_2014-03-30.pdf
www.mossmotors.com
www.the-roadster-factory.com
My Blog- http://www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com/
Websites from two of my friends -
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
http://www.74tr6.com/
The Bentley manual online version http://www.bmcno.org/manuals/TR6%20Repair%20Operation%20Manual.pdf (Download and save)
I compiled these links for him, but thought people who read my blog might appreciate them.
Useful links
6-Pack Forum - http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum
Best Tech articles on the web - http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
Wiring diagrams - http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf
Dashboard wiring connections - http://www.6-pack.org/j15/media/kunena/attachments/6613/74-75FaciaR1_2014-03-30.pdf
www.mossmotors.com
www.the-roadster-factory.com
My Blog- http://www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com/
Websites from two of my friends -
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
http://www.74tr6.com/
The Bentley manual online version http://www.bmcno.org/manuals/TR6%20Repair%20Operation%20Manual.pdf (Download and save)
Sunday, March 16, 2014
Getting Rid Of The Drip!!!
Like every LBC (Little British Car), mine marks its territory with a trail of spots of fossil fuels. As charming as that might be to some, its annoying to most. And truth be told, it makes a mess in my driveway and garage.
My TR6 has two primary leaks. First was from the front of the engine on the lower end, Second is right near the serial number stamping on the non-compression side of the cylinder head gasket.
I decided to attack the front lower end of the leak in a multi prong attack and see what I could do to end the drip. The problem was that there were many places where the engine could leak up front. To fix these, you essentially have to go after the leaks with a shotgun approach. Hit them all to fix the real culprit.
The usual suspects are:
- Stock front sealing block is aluminum. Can't torque it correctly. Also bolt holes penetrate the internal engine areas and allow oil out the threads.
- Front oil seal will groove the sealing sleeve on the crank and create a drip.
- Timing chain cover has 12 bolts/studs and a very large gasket which can leak.
- Oil pan edges get deformation from years of use and the warped edges are hard to seal.
My plan to seal this was a new oil seal, gasket set, modern steel sealing block and seal the entire thing using Hylomar sealant to ensure a good seal throughout.
However, when I dug into the engine, I found the real culprit. What I found was that two of the top two studs no longer had nuts securing the cover in place. Oil and crud had built up around that edge and had just been pumping down the bottom edge of the front of the engine for the past who knows how many years. (blue arrows pointing to my problem) Oh yeah, Lock nuts on those studs now to ensure no problem in the future.
My TR6 has two primary leaks. First was from the front of the engine on the lower end, Second is right near the serial number stamping on the non-compression side of the cylinder head gasket.
I decided to attack the front lower end of the leak in a multi prong attack and see what I could do to end the drip. The problem was that there were many places where the engine could leak up front. To fix these, you essentially have to go after the leaks with a shotgun approach. Hit them all to fix the real culprit.
The usual suspects are:
- Stock front sealing block is aluminum. Can't torque it correctly. Also bolt holes penetrate the internal engine areas and allow oil out the threads.
- Front oil seal will groove the sealing sleeve on the crank and create a drip.
- Timing chain cover has 12 bolts/studs and a very large gasket which can leak.
- Oil pan edges get deformation from years of use and the warped edges are hard to seal.
My plan to seal this was a new oil seal, gasket set, modern steel sealing block and seal the entire thing using Hylomar sealant to ensure a good seal throughout.
However, when I dug into the engine, I found the real culprit. What I found was that two of the top two studs no longer had nuts securing the cover in place. Oil and crud had built up around that edge and had just been pumping down the bottom edge of the front of the engine for the past who knows how many years. (blue arrows pointing to my problem) Oh yeah, Lock nuts on those studs now to ensure no problem in the future.
After finding that, the rest of the job was really just a matter of cleaning up, stripping down, repainting parts, and then reinstalling with new gaskets and a slather of hylomar. The results are not a single drop from the front or bottom of the engine since the job was done.
Here are some photos from the rest of the job.
Saturday, February 22, 2014
Paint Fill On Engraved Numbers - Harmonic Balancer
My winter project has been to re-seal the bottom and front of my engine, and necessitated pulling most of the front and bottom of the engine off. Since those components were off, I degreased and repainted all of them.
For the harmonica balancer, I really wanted it to look much better than the grease coated spinning glob that it looked like before. I carefully used a citrus based paint stripper to get the paint off after using Gunk Engine Brite to degrease it. A stripping pad quickly got the paint off and the balancer down to bare metal. I used a small metal scribe to clean out each of the numerals and indicator lines on the outside diameter of the balancer.
When I shot the paint, I used high heat primer and high heat black even though I was not really worried about temp. Frankly, that was because I shot the rest of the components with it. I shot a normal coat of primer and paint on the faces of the dampener, but the outer edge, I was particularly light so I would not fill the numbers and scribe marks in.
Finally, after letting the paint dry for a few days, I was ready to fill the numbers with contrasting paint. the method I'm using came from a gun forum. People were using this method to fill the engraving on Glock pistol slides to provide a nice contrast on the pistols. I figure if it can stand the wear and tear a pistol sees, then it should be able to handle an engine bay.
Materials for this job cost $4! I bought a $1.99 bottle of white nail polish at the drugstore and a $1.99 bottle of non-acetone nail polish remover. I also used paper towels (flat non quilted seems better).
To do the job, it seems better to do one number at a time. Fold a towel into a small square or rectangle and wet with remover. Then dab nail polish into the number and scribe line next to it. Very quickly and gently, wipe away the excess, leaving the paint inside the engraved number and indicator line. I actually did my numbers twice, and I did much better the second time around. Make sure to have several little squares of paper towel ready, and use a new square on each number. Don't scrimp here and smear white paint around on your work!
This is a really quick process, but don't be tempted to do 2-3 or 4 numbers at a time. The nail polish will dry too quickly on you and you'll have a difficult time removing it from the surrounding area with the remover.
Below is my before and after. You can see a little bit of white paint on the face of the dampener in the photos, but it does not show in normal lighting.
The damper is now installed, and it looks good in the engine bay. Now if I can just get the oil pan back on and the steering rack back in place so I can drive the thing, I'll be a happy guy!
For the harmonica balancer, I really wanted it to look much better than the grease coated spinning glob that it looked like before. I carefully used a citrus based paint stripper to get the paint off after using Gunk Engine Brite to degrease it. A stripping pad quickly got the paint off and the balancer down to bare metal. I used a small metal scribe to clean out each of the numerals and indicator lines on the outside diameter of the balancer.
When I shot the paint, I used high heat primer and high heat black even though I was not really worried about temp. Frankly, that was because I shot the rest of the components with it. I shot a normal coat of primer and paint on the faces of the dampener, but the outer edge, I was particularly light so I would not fill the numbers and scribe marks in.
Finally, after letting the paint dry for a few days, I was ready to fill the numbers with contrasting paint. the method I'm using came from a gun forum. People were using this method to fill the engraving on Glock pistol slides to provide a nice contrast on the pistols. I figure if it can stand the wear and tear a pistol sees, then it should be able to handle an engine bay.
Materials for this job cost $4! I bought a $1.99 bottle of white nail polish at the drugstore and a $1.99 bottle of non-acetone nail polish remover. I also used paper towels (flat non quilted seems better).
To do the job, it seems better to do one number at a time. Fold a towel into a small square or rectangle and wet with remover. Then dab nail polish into the number and scribe line next to it. Very quickly and gently, wipe away the excess, leaving the paint inside the engraved number and indicator line. I actually did my numbers twice, and I did much better the second time around. Make sure to have several little squares of paper towel ready, and use a new square on each number. Don't scrimp here and smear white paint around on your work!
This is a really quick process, but don't be tempted to do 2-3 or 4 numbers at a time. The nail polish will dry too quickly on you and you'll have a difficult time removing it from the surrounding area with the remover.
Below is my before and after. You can see a little bit of white paint on the face of the dampener in the photos, but it does not show in normal lighting.
The damper is now installed, and it looks good in the engine bay. Now if I can just get the oil pan back on and the steering rack back in place so I can drive the thing, I'll be a happy guy!
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
New Workshop!
So one of the reasons I have not been posting much over the winter is that I moved. I only moved one town over, but moving a family of four, changing schools, etc is a big deal. Amazingly enough, packing up my garage took more time than packing up the entire house!
The good news is that my wife gave me the green light to build a 'shop' area in the new garage to make things more organized and easier to work in.
So, here is what I've got:
100sq foot shop area off by itself. This area has cabinetry on one side, storage shelving on the other. work surfaces on both. I installed all of this. Pegboard tool storage on the wall with cabinetry allows me ample storage for tools and makes things much more organized.
The good news is that my wife gave me the green light to build a 'shop' area in the new garage to make things more organized and easier to work in.
So, here is what I've got:
100sq foot shop area off by itself. This area has cabinetry on one side, storage shelving on the other. work surfaces on both. I installed all of this. Pegboard tool storage on the wall with cabinetry allows me ample storage for tools and makes things much more organized.
Next up part 2
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Finished Hard Top!
Back during Fall, I finally moved my family to a new home. The process was definitely a lengthy and tough process. Not for the faint of heart. The good news however is that the new home is great and has a very nice garage.
On to the Hardtop - Its been installed since October or so. I'm really enjoying driving the car with it installed. Tightens the car up from a noise perspective, from a handling perspective and from a temperature prospective. All great things.
I refinished the 'vents' in before installing them, and they turned out nicely.
I installed some sound and temperature insulation inside the hardtop shell before installing the headliner. That has made the car much more quiet inside with the hardtop on, and nice and toasty when the heat is on.
On to the Hardtop - Its been installed since October or so. I'm really enjoying driving the car with it installed. Tightens the car up from a noise perspective, from a handling perspective and from a temperature prospective. All great things.
I refinished the 'vents' in before installing them, and they turned out nicely.
The headliner was not an easy thing to install, but the result looks good and finished the top beautifully.
I installed some sound and temperature insulation inside the hardtop shell before installing the headliner. That has made the car much more quiet inside with the hardtop on, and nice and toasty when the heat is on.
The finished hardtop is great!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)



























