Cooling System Complete

After fixing the radiator and re-installing it, I was able to finish out the installation of the electric fan harness and complete the cooling system re-do.

The wiring went in pretty well. I was able to tie into the original fuse box in the car to allow picking up the wiring which was electrified when the key was on and the wiring that was on all the time. I also was able to use some of the original holes in the car to mount the relay. I finished the wiring install by wrapping the harness exactly as the stock harness was wrapped, so the whole setup looks like it belongs there.

 

 

 

I thoroughly tested the system after installation and everything went really well. I installed a 180 degree thermostat and the system performs perfectly. It cycles exactly as expected and the car runs at a perfect temperature all the time. It also handled the 100 plus degree summer in Memphis with no issues.

 

Cooling System Refurb Continued

So where I left off with the Cooling System, my radiator was at the radiator shop being boiled out and soldered up where it had a leak.

Unfortunately, I got a call from the shop and they asked me to come in. When I got there, they had the radiator off to the side. Boiled out, but obviously not soldered up. They basically told me that it had a header leak, and because it was a 40 year old radiator, they would not solder it up. They offered to re-core it for $400, but a new rad is only $260, so I said no thanks and went on my way.

When I got home, I had to figure out how to seal the radiator. I had read that using a vacuum to pull the epoxy into the joint would make the repair much stronger. Talking with a buddy who works on vintage Volvos confirmed that this repair could work.

With all that in my mind, I pulled out the automated vacuum pump I built a few years ago for building composite airplane parts. I sealed up the radiator and then hooked up the pump system and pulled a vacuum. I could hear the leak 'sucking'.

I worked up a batch of JBWeld and spread it around the leaking area. I could actually hear the epoxy being pulled into the leak and then there was silence! After letting the epoxy cure overnight, I pulled a vacuum against the radiator and it held for several minutes. Definitely a successful repair.

Next up, I needed to install the fan on the radiator. I used some self tapping screws to mount the fan to the outer edges of the radiator shroud. This is a definite measure twice, drill once type of job....

With the fan mounted to the radiator, it was time to install the whole assembly back in the car. The fan motor did not clear the frame crossmember. I elongated the holes in the radiator braces to get the fan motor off the crossmember, but will eventually make new longer braces to pull it completely off the crossmember.

To be continued......

Cool It!!!!!!

When I rebuilt my '73 back in 1990, we went back original with pretty much everything. We even went back with the fiberboard radiator shroud that the car had when new.

Unfortunately, just like the original, water damage from daily driving destroyed, warped, wore the fiberboard construction of the replacement shroud we put back in. It lasted probably 6 years and then I removed it. No radiator shroud since.

After seeing all the good looking shrouds in forum posters' cars, I really wanted to put one back in there. I looked all over for fiberboard and other appropriate materials, and then while drooling over Francois' shroud that he used to manufacture, I thought I saw that it was made from corrugated/fluted plastic sheet, with his gorgeous stainless shield on top. (still not sure I saw that right).

The common name in the US for that product is Coroplast. Its what you usually see in realty and election signs. Most are done in white, but it comes in a full range of colors. I know its tough too - many of my flying friends used to make radio controlled combat aircraft out of it and 'destroy' the competition with their planes.

I figured I oughtta give some a try, and by chance the plant I run shares a roof with the local Coroplast distributor. Ended up that I was able to get an 8x4 sheet of the stuff for $12.50. That sheet will make about 6 shrouds by the look of it.

With a ruler and a vague memory of what the original shroud looked like, I set to work. I first measured the 'top' of the area where the shroud would go. After cutting the top, I was able to cut a piece for each side, and after 5 mins of trial and error, I had a workable part.

For this first one, and since I have so much extra, I decided to give it a try with some tape to hold it together and to see if I have the fluting going the best direction. I may try another with the top fluted in a different direction.

I also need to come up with a way to join the top and sides, so will likely use some thin L bend aluminum and rivets/washers to hold it together. Polish the aluminum and it should look really good.

Like I said, this is just the first effort. The next one should look much better. When I get my final version done, I plan to use some of the graphics from the site Bobby D put up the link to and have my local sign guy knock something out in chrome for the top.

On another note, I've done a ton of work on the car in the past few days, but it has only involved about $10 worth of parts!!!

What on earth could result in that much work from such a small dollar amount? Grommets and Bulbs.

Grommets are generally cheap, but they make a huge difference in the appearance of the car. Even bigger yet, they keep the interior fume free! With the goal of eliminating the fumes in the car, I've replaced almost all the grommets in the firewall, and now the grommets in the kick plate/parcel shelf as well. Hopefully that will help with the smell.

As for the bulbs, my instruments were a bit dim, just a bit hard to see when the sun went down, so I decided to replace as many as I could while I had a few things out of the way to give access. Its not dark yet, but so far, they do look a bit brighter. Should be a big improvement!