Monday, May 18, 2015
TR6 Autocross Video
This vid was shot the same day that the photo in my avatar was taken. I really enjoyed autocrossing the TR6 and would like to do some more.
Sunday, May 17, 2015
Wiring a TRiumph or other British Car
One of the tasks that you'll face as you work on a British car is the need to solder on a new bullet connector. Its an easy task, but it helps to use the right technique.
I documented my technique below. Maybe this video will help you or someone you know.
I documented my technique below. Maybe this video will help you or someone you know.
Saturday, May 9, 2015
Videos from 2015 Mitty!
Here are some vids I shot at the Mitty!
First off, my touring laps.
First off, my touring laps.
Some awesome racing shot at turn 5 and 7.
And finally, the Coker Tour to get there.
2015 Walter Mitty at Road America
This year I was able to attend 'The Mitty' at Road Atlanta for the 3rd time. Again it was an absolutely awesome time. This year was made even more fun by the fact that my father was able to join me with his own TR6.
At the Mitty, we camped out and watched countless awesome races. The big bore stuff was a lot of fun to watch this year, as were the small bore stuff that included the Triumphs, Alfas, MG's and small Porsches.
We topped off the weekend by getting to tour the track several times in our cars. In total I got about 8 laps around the track. That was an absolute blast!
If you get the chance to go to the Mitty, you have to go. It has become one of the highlights of my year!
Before getting out to the Mitty, we spent time at Coker Tire and participated in the Coker Tire Tour which was put on by Classic Motorsports Magazine. The tour at Coker was great, and the drive down to Road Atlanta from Chattanooga was an awesome tour as well.
At the Mitty, we camped out and watched countless awesome races. The big bore stuff was a lot of fun to watch this year, as were the small bore stuff that included the Triumphs, Alfas, MG's and small Porsches.
We topped off the weekend by getting to tour the track several times in our cars. In total I got about 8 laps around the track. That was an absolute blast!
If you get the chance to go to the Mitty, you have to go. It has become one of the highlights of my year!
Tuesday, March 24, 2015
TR6 Dash Refinish and Dash Pad Replacement -- Part 2
To replace my top dash pad, I had to first remove my dash panel. I had done this as part of the dash refinishing, so that was out of the way. The second step was to remove the windshield frame. This was a bigger problem.
The real reason that the first dash top pad (which we replaced in 1991) peeled loose is that we were unable to remove the windshield frame. Its brackets were rusted absolutely solid. Every attempt at levering, banging, hammering, etc yielded nothing. Eventually, I got one of my neighbors to come over and help yank on it. I eventually ended up getting out my torch and heating the bracket- Heat did the trick! (and I did not set the car on fire).
With the windshield frame out, I was able to peel the old dash pad out easily and install the new one. I did glue the new pad in place. I did not want it peeling up 10 years from now.
The real reason that the first dash top pad (which we replaced in 1991) peeled loose is that we were unable to remove the windshield frame. Its brackets were rusted absolutely solid. Every attempt at levering, banging, hammering, etc yielded nothing. Eventually, I got one of my neighbors to come over and help yank on it. I eventually ended up getting out my torch and heating the bracket- Heat did the trick! (and I did not set the car on fire).
With the windshield frame out, I was able to peel the old dash pad out easily and install the new one. I did glue the new pad in place. I did not want it peeling up 10 years from now.
TR6 Dash Refinish and Dash Pad Replacement
Before the 2015 driving season was to start, I decided to refinish the dash in my TR, as well as finally replace the top pad of my dash area. The dash itself had a little sun and water damage, and frankly I had not really finished it correctly in the first place. The top dash panel itself had released from the scuttle and from under the windshield frame and it was curling up. It looked terrible!
To re-do the dash panel, I had to remove all the instruments and separate the panel from the car.
From there, I block sanded the panel with 320 grit paper. This process took quite a while as I wanted to take it down past the sun/water damaged areas. Next up, I used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Gunstock finish to finish the dash panel. The way I did this was by using progressively finer grits of paper and 'wet-sanding' the dash. The lubricant for each grade of paper was the Tru-Oil itself.
My process was to put a drop of Tru-Oil on the dash, sand in small circles with the paper, then wipe the slurry off the board, across the grain so that I would push it into the grain and fill it. I did this 4-5 times with the 400 grit paper and 2-3 times with the 600 grit paper. Finally, I used 1000 grit, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit paper.
Finally, I 'French polished' the dash with straight Tru-Oil with a little cotton buff. After letting this sit for a week, I buffed this out with a microfiber towel and Meguiars plastic polish. I chose the plastic polish because it is very gentle.
The results are wonderful!
To re-do the dash panel, I had to remove all the instruments and separate the panel from the car.
From there, I block sanded the panel with 320 grit paper. This process took quite a while as I wanted to take it down past the sun/water damaged areas. Next up, I used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Gunstock finish to finish the dash panel. The way I did this was by using progressively finer grits of paper and 'wet-sanding' the dash. The lubricant for each grade of paper was the Tru-Oil itself.
My process was to put a drop of Tru-Oil on the dash, sand in small circles with the paper, then wipe the slurry off the board, across the grain so that I would push it into the grain and fill it. I did this 4-5 times with the 400 grit paper and 2-3 times with the 600 grit paper. Finally, I used 1000 grit, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit paper.
Finally, I 'French polished' the dash with straight Tru-Oil with a little cotton buff. After letting this sit for a week, I buffed this out with a microfiber towel and Meguiars plastic polish. I chose the plastic polish because it is very gentle.
The results are wonderful!
Sunday, January 18, 2015
TR6 Addco Swaybar Install
My Christmas gift from the wife this year was an Addco SwayBar for the car
. This is the bar that Lou (lfmtr4) worked on with Addco and arranged in 2013. They do now stock it and when I was finally able to order it during the 1st week of January, they had 5 in stock and mentioned it had been a very good seller.
I'm finally getting to installation, and have the instructions (link below) as well as having looked at every thread on the forum I could find on installation.
addco.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/929.pdf
Like others that installed this bar, I elected to use the cupped washers in between all bushings. I put them in the order as seen, with the big gap at the top being the trailing arm area.
I also had one TA where the large washers fit perfectly (passenger side), whereas the drivers' side I had to cut a little from each side of the washer to get it to fit in between the nubs that are on the bottom side of the casting.
Finally, I also found that I had to cut approximately 1/8" from the rubber spring packing so that the upper large washer would sit in place while also allowing the threads on the end of the link bolt to protrude far enough for the nut to grab while installing the link. (no pics of that...)
For the mounting to the frame, I found that while I had no clearance issues whatsoever with my exhaust system, my frame does have an up curve where the bracket hits, so the bracket would not sit flat. The kit came with a 1/4" flat plate to mount the bracket to. I assume it acts as a spacer as well, so I elected to take two large washers and space the rear of the bracket with them. I used my angle grinder to grind one of the washers to a taper to match the curve of the frame so that the plate would remain flat without any bind. (washers came from the junk pile, so they already have crud on them that matches the frame
)
This thing simply corners much better/harder than before, and harder than any TR6 I've ridden in. I'm happy with it!
My car has a decidedly different setup than stock, and this Addco rear bar is one piece of it. Since these things all go together to make them a complete system, I feel like I finally have a complete (or more complete than before) system.
Front suspension-
TSI competition springs (1 coil cut out of them)
Koni shocks on softest setting
Polyurethane bushings
Stock Antiroll Bar
1.6 degrees camber
Rear Suspension-
TSI competition springs (1 coil cut out of them)
Stock shocks with extremely heavyweight oil (heavier than 30wt, but don't know exactly)
Goodparts Adjustable camber mounts
Goodparts Nylatron Bushings
Addco Antiroll Bar
1.4 degrees camber
Falken 205-65R15 tires front/rear.
I'm finally getting to installation, and have the instructions (link below) as well as having looked at every thread on the forum I could find on installation.
addco.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/929.pdf
Like others that installed this bar, I elected to use the cupped washers in between all bushings. I put them in the order as seen, with the big gap at the top being the trailing arm area.
I also had one TA where the large washers fit perfectly (passenger side), whereas the drivers' side I had to cut a little from each side of the washer to get it to fit in between the nubs that are on the bottom side of the casting.
Finally, I also found that I had to cut approximately 1/8" from the rubber spring packing so that the upper large washer would sit in place while also allowing the threads on the end of the link bolt to protrude far enough for the nut to grab while installing the link. (no pics of that...)
For the mounting to the frame, I found that while I had no clearance issues whatsoever with my exhaust system, my frame does have an up curve where the bracket hits, so the bracket would not sit flat. The kit came with a 1/4" flat plate to mount the bracket to. I assume it acts as a spacer as well, so I elected to take two large washers and space the rear of the bracket with them. I used my angle grinder to grind one of the washers to a taper to match the curve of the frame so that the plate would remain flat without any bind. (washers came from the junk pile, so they already have crud on them that matches the frame
This thing simply corners much better/harder than before, and harder than any TR6 I've ridden in. I'm happy with it!
My car has a decidedly different setup than stock, and this Addco rear bar is one piece of it. Since these things all go together to make them a complete system, I feel like I finally have a complete (or more complete than before) system.
Front suspension-
TSI competition springs (1 coil cut out of them)
Koni shocks on softest setting
Polyurethane bushings
Stock Antiroll Bar
1.6 degrees camber
Rear Suspension-
TSI competition springs (1 coil cut out of them)
Stock shocks with extremely heavyweight oil (heavier than 30wt, but don't know exactly)
Goodparts Adjustable camber mounts
Goodparts Nylatron Bushings
Addco Antiroll Bar
1.4 degrees camber
Falken 205-65R15 tires front/rear.
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