My father just purchased a 1975 TR6. His first TR in 30 years!
I compiled these links for him, but thought people who read my blog might appreciate them.
Useful links
6-Pack Forum - http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php/forum
Best Tech articles on the web - http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
Wiring diagrams - http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf
Dashboard wiring connections - http://www.6-pack.org/j15/media/kunena/attachments/6613/74-75FaciaR1_2014-03-30.pdf
www.mossmotors.com
www.the-roadster-factory.com
My Blog- http://www.coventrysfinest.blogspot.com/
Websites from two of my friends -
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/
http://www.74tr6.com/
The Bentley manual online version http://www.bmcno.org/manuals/TR6%20Repair%20Operation%20Manual.pdf (Download and save)
Saturday, June 21, 2014
Sunday, March 16, 2014
Getting Rid Of The Drip!!!
Like every LBC (Little British Car), mine marks its territory with a trail of spots of fossil fuels. As charming as that might be to some, its annoying to most. And truth be told, it makes a mess in my driveway and garage.
My TR6 has two primary leaks. First was from the front of the engine on the lower end, Second is right near the serial number stamping on the non-compression side of the cylinder head gasket.
I decided to attack the front lower end of the leak in a multi prong attack and see what I could do to end the drip. The problem was that there were many places where the engine could leak up front. To fix these, you essentially have to go after the leaks with a shotgun approach. Hit them all to fix the real culprit.
The usual suspects are:
- Stock front sealing block is aluminum. Can't torque it correctly. Also bolt holes penetrate the internal engine areas and allow oil out the threads.
- Front oil seal will groove the sealing sleeve on the crank and create a drip.
- Timing chain cover has 12 bolts/studs and a very large gasket which can leak.
- Oil pan edges get deformation from years of use and the warped edges are hard to seal.
My plan to seal this was a new oil seal, gasket set, modern steel sealing block and seal the entire thing using Hylomar sealant to ensure a good seal throughout.
However, when I dug into the engine, I found the real culprit. What I found was that two of the top two studs no longer had nuts securing the cover in place. Oil and crud had built up around that edge and had just been pumping down the bottom edge of the front of the engine for the past who knows how many years. (blue arrows pointing to my problem) Oh yeah, Lock nuts on those studs now to ensure no problem in the future.
My TR6 has two primary leaks. First was from the front of the engine on the lower end, Second is right near the serial number stamping on the non-compression side of the cylinder head gasket.
I decided to attack the front lower end of the leak in a multi prong attack and see what I could do to end the drip. The problem was that there were many places where the engine could leak up front. To fix these, you essentially have to go after the leaks with a shotgun approach. Hit them all to fix the real culprit.
The usual suspects are:
- Stock front sealing block is aluminum. Can't torque it correctly. Also bolt holes penetrate the internal engine areas and allow oil out the threads.
- Front oil seal will groove the sealing sleeve on the crank and create a drip.
- Timing chain cover has 12 bolts/studs and a very large gasket which can leak.
- Oil pan edges get deformation from years of use and the warped edges are hard to seal.
My plan to seal this was a new oil seal, gasket set, modern steel sealing block and seal the entire thing using Hylomar sealant to ensure a good seal throughout.
However, when I dug into the engine, I found the real culprit. What I found was that two of the top two studs no longer had nuts securing the cover in place. Oil and crud had built up around that edge and had just been pumping down the bottom edge of the front of the engine for the past who knows how many years. (blue arrows pointing to my problem) Oh yeah, Lock nuts on those studs now to ensure no problem in the future.
After finding that, the rest of the job was really just a matter of cleaning up, stripping down, repainting parts, and then reinstalling with new gaskets and a slather of hylomar. The results are not a single drop from the front or bottom of the engine since the job was done.
Here are some photos from the rest of the job.
Saturday, February 22, 2014
Paint Fill On Engraved Numbers - Harmonic Balancer
My winter project has been to re-seal the bottom and front of my engine, and necessitated pulling most of the front and bottom of the engine off. Since those components were off, I degreased and repainted all of them.
For the harmonica balancer, I really wanted it to look much better than the grease coated spinning glob that it looked like before. I carefully used a citrus based paint stripper to get the paint off after using Gunk Engine Brite to degrease it. A stripping pad quickly got the paint off and the balancer down to bare metal. I used a small metal scribe to clean out each of the numerals and indicator lines on the outside diameter of the balancer.
When I shot the paint, I used high heat primer and high heat black even though I was not really worried about temp. Frankly, that was because I shot the rest of the components with it. I shot a normal coat of primer and paint on the faces of the dampener, but the outer edge, I was particularly light so I would not fill the numbers and scribe marks in.
Finally, after letting the paint dry for a few days, I was ready to fill the numbers with contrasting paint. the method I'm using came from a gun forum. People were using this method to fill the engraving on Glock pistol slides to provide a nice contrast on the pistols. I figure if it can stand the wear and tear a pistol sees, then it should be able to handle an engine bay.
Materials for this job cost $4! I bought a $1.99 bottle of white nail polish at the drugstore and a $1.99 bottle of non-acetone nail polish remover. I also used paper towels (flat non quilted seems better).
To do the job, it seems better to do one number at a time. Fold a towel into a small square or rectangle and wet with remover. Then dab nail polish into the number and scribe line next to it. Very quickly and gently, wipe away the excess, leaving the paint inside the engraved number and indicator line. I actually did my numbers twice, and I did much better the second time around. Make sure to have several little squares of paper towel ready, and use a new square on each number. Don't scrimp here and smear white paint around on your work!
This is a really quick process, but don't be tempted to do 2-3 or 4 numbers at a time. The nail polish will dry too quickly on you and you'll have a difficult time removing it from the surrounding area with the remover.
Below is my before and after. You can see a little bit of white paint on the face of the dampener in the photos, but it does not show in normal lighting.
The damper is now installed, and it looks good in the engine bay. Now if I can just get the oil pan back on and the steering rack back in place so I can drive the thing, I'll be a happy guy!
For the harmonica balancer, I really wanted it to look much better than the grease coated spinning glob that it looked like before. I carefully used a citrus based paint stripper to get the paint off after using Gunk Engine Brite to degrease it. A stripping pad quickly got the paint off and the balancer down to bare metal. I used a small metal scribe to clean out each of the numerals and indicator lines on the outside diameter of the balancer.
When I shot the paint, I used high heat primer and high heat black even though I was not really worried about temp. Frankly, that was because I shot the rest of the components with it. I shot a normal coat of primer and paint on the faces of the dampener, but the outer edge, I was particularly light so I would not fill the numbers and scribe marks in.
Finally, after letting the paint dry for a few days, I was ready to fill the numbers with contrasting paint. the method I'm using came from a gun forum. People were using this method to fill the engraving on Glock pistol slides to provide a nice contrast on the pistols. I figure if it can stand the wear and tear a pistol sees, then it should be able to handle an engine bay.
Materials for this job cost $4! I bought a $1.99 bottle of white nail polish at the drugstore and a $1.99 bottle of non-acetone nail polish remover. I also used paper towels (flat non quilted seems better).
To do the job, it seems better to do one number at a time. Fold a towel into a small square or rectangle and wet with remover. Then dab nail polish into the number and scribe line next to it. Very quickly and gently, wipe away the excess, leaving the paint inside the engraved number and indicator line. I actually did my numbers twice, and I did much better the second time around. Make sure to have several little squares of paper towel ready, and use a new square on each number. Don't scrimp here and smear white paint around on your work!
This is a really quick process, but don't be tempted to do 2-3 or 4 numbers at a time. The nail polish will dry too quickly on you and you'll have a difficult time removing it from the surrounding area with the remover.
Below is my before and after. You can see a little bit of white paint on the face of the dampener in the photos, but it does not show in normal lighting.
The damper is now installed, and it looks good in the engine bay. Now if I can just get the oil pan back on and the steering rack back in place so I can drive the thing, I'll be a happy guy!
Wednesday, February 19, 2014
New Workshop!
So one of the reasons I have not been posting much over the winter is that I moved. I only moved one town over, but moving a family of four, changing schools, etc is a big deal. Amazingly enough, packing up my garage took more time than packing up the entire house!
The good news is that my wife gave me the green light to build a 'shop' area in the new garage to make things more organized and easier to work in.
So, here is what I've got:
100sq foot shop area off by itself. This area has cabinetry on one side, storage shelving on the other. work surfaces on both. I installed all of this. Pegboard tool storage on the wall with cabinetry allows me ample storage for tools and makes things much more organized.
The good news is that my wife gave me the green light to build a 'shop' area in the new garage to make things more organized and easier to work in.
So, here is what I've got:
100sq foot shop area off by itself. This area has cabinetry on one side, storage shelving on the other. work surfaces on both. I installed all of this. Pegboard tool storage on the wall with cabinetry allows me ample storage for tools and makes things much more organized.
Next up part 2
Wednesday, January 22, 2014
Finished Hard Top!
Back during Fall, I finally moved my family to a new home. The process was definitely a lengthy and tough process. Not for the faint of heart. The good news however is that the new home is great and has a very nice garage.
On to the Hardtop - Its been installed since October or so. I'm really enjoying driving the car with it installed. Tightens the car up from a noise perspective, from a handling perspective and from a temperature prospective. All great things.
I refinished the 'vents' in before installing them, and they turned out nicely.
I installed some sound and temperature insulation inside the hardtop shell before installing the headliner. That has made the car much more quiet inside with the hardtop on, and nice and toasty when the heat is on.
On to the Hardtop - Its been installed since October or so. I'm really enjoying driving the car with it installed. Tightens the car up from a noise perspective, from a handling perspective and from a temperature prospective. All great things.
I refinished the 'vents' in before installing them, and they turned out nicely.
The headliner was not an easy thing to install, but the result looks good and finished the top beautifully.
I installed some sound and temperature insulation inside the hardtop shell before installing the headliner. That has made the car much more quiet inside with the hardtop on, and nice and toasty when the heat is on.
The finished hardtop is great!
Monday, January 20, 2014
GoPro in a Triumph!
Super cool birthday present from my family this year - a GoPro Hero3 camera. I shot this video with the camera mounted to the roll bar. Nice twisty road on a sunny day!
Monday, September 2, 2013
Hardtop Paint Is A Match!
You cannot begin to imagine the weight that lifted from my shoulders when I saw the top and the car together....
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